India

Having travelled to Upper Mustang via Jomsom 20 years ago, the changes this time are dramatic. After getting off the plane at Jomsom airport, one is greeted not by the sound of mule bells but by mo

'When you come around the corner, you will see a sight that will move your soul.' So wrote my Sirdar in an email to me after his reconnaissance trip into the Nar Phu valleys in August 2005.